sábado, 27 de junho de 2009

Sq. Jean XXIII, Paris
Getting Medieval

Uma discussão interessante entre membros de uma família espanhola (ou que pelo menos se comunica nesta língua), que estão passando por mim agora:
Menino de uns 6 anos: "Não, não não! Picasso não pintou 'As Meninas'! Foi o Velazquez"
Menina de uns 4 anos: "Pintou sim!"
ItalicMenino: "Foi o Velazquez! Velazquez!"
Mão conciliadora: "O Velazquez pintou primeiro sim, mas o Picasso também pintou, anos depois."
Crianças em coro: "A, bom!"
Esta é a vantagem de blogar de uma praça. Ou da calçada do lado de fora da praça, já que esta aqui já fechou por hoje. As coisas fecham cedo em Paris, e o sol se põe tarde nesta época, então estou sempre chegando em lugares fechados ou em processo de fechamento.

Ontem acordei relativamente cedo e voltei ao museu da idade média. Desta vez fiz questão de ver cada relicario, tapeçaria e báculo em exposição. O museu fica nos antigos alojamenots do abades de Cluny (o coração cultural da França, e portanto da Europa, medieval), que foi por sua vez construido sobre as ruinas de uma casa de banhos galo-romana. Uma sobreposição interessante.

Talvez os objetos mais curiosos do museu (ou pelo menos os mais acessiveis) são as tapeçarias. As mais famosas formam um conjunto de seis peças alegóricas conhecidas coletivamente como 'A Dama e o Unicornio' (o que é bastante injusto com o leão, que tem tanta proeminência quanto o cavalo cornado nas imagens). Outra série interessante narra a história de Santo Estevão, com toda a pregação, martírio e milagres que esperamos de uma superprodução da igreja católica (aparentemente com números de canto e dança estilo West Side Story, a crer no detalhe acima).


Outro tipo de arte de que sempre gostei são vitrais e vidros tingidos medievais, e a coleção do museu é respeitável. Coincidentemente, enquanto eu examinava alguns exemplares, uma americana ao lado começou a discorrer longamente sobre as técnicas de fabricação elaboradas e a qualidade artistica impecável da peça em questão (uma crucificação, veja detalhe ao lado). Puxando um pouco de papo, fiquei sabendo que ela era também uma artista especializada em vidraçaria (vidraçeira? Deve haver um nome mais adequado...). Seus colegas medievais tampouco brincavam em serviço. Segundo minha amiga, a tal crucificação teria ido para o forno pelo menos umas sete vezes, com detalhes sendo acrecidos gradativamente a cada iteração. Cada cor (correspondente a um óxido metálico diferente) era colocada separadamente; e as folhas metálicas de cobre eram aplicadas a nano-marteladas e cobertas de esmalte dos dois lados de modo que as tensões mecânicas no vidro se equilibrassem. Não é preciso ser especialista para apreciar algum tipo de arte, obviamente; mas saber mais sobre como ela foi feita (ou conhecer alguem que saiba) torna a experiencia muito mais interessante.


Mas o que mais me fascinou nesta visita, de forma um tanto ideosicrática, foram os assentos de igreja esculpidos em madeira, dos quais o museu dispões de cerca de 40. Sob a prancha escamoteavel de cada assento existe uma pequena escultura ilustrando algum aspecto da vida mediaval (fazer manteiga, amolar facas, matar porcos, chacinar camponeses, etc), ou alguma criatura fantástico, ou o que quer que os carpinteiros medievais tivessem vontade de representar na época. Assim como com as gárgulas de Notre Dame, não parecia haver um controle eclesiastico muito sistemático sobre os escultores, então estes podiam abusar do humor e profanidade (veja o final deste post para alguns exemplos).


Depois da overdose de idade média, e de um pulinho na pracinha para um pouco de internet, começei o meu caminho de volta para a casa da Jacqueline. Uma tradição que estou aparentemente criando aqui em Paris é ser emboscado pela parada Gay local. Quando passei por aqui a caminha da Córsega, anos atrás, eu emergi do Metro (na época eu ainda andava nisso) na praça onde supostamente pegaria meu onibus para o aeroporto, e me vi no meio do que parecia ser o ponto de concetração da parada, com drag queens ajustando os enchimento peitorais e grupos afinando os últimos detalhes da coreografia. Desta vez, estava a ponto de atravessar o Blv. St. Germain quando vi o meu caminho interrompido por um rio de gente, celebrando festivamente a diversidade sexual e os shorts apertados de couro perante turistas e curiosos locais.


Consegui com dificuldade atravessar a corrente sem ser arrastado por ela; cortado ao meio, o transito na cidade toda estava obviamente arrastado, até para bicicletas. Finalmente chegando na casa da Jacqueline, encontrei-a de de saida, para um show de chorinho (!) em Montparnasse. Depois de um banho e um lanche, me juntei a ela. Foi um show interessante, tanto pelo conteudo quanto pela situação. Fomos então andando até a rua Racine para jantar em um simpático restaurante em arte noveau. Eu já disse que a Jacqueline é animada? Saimos do restaurante e continuamos andando, para observar a arquitetura parisiense a noite. Passamos pela Ponte Nova (a ponte, não a cidade; apesar do nome é a ponte mais velha de Paris), Les Halles, a usina George Pompidou e diversos hôtels particuliers cujo nome não vou me lembrar agora. Voltamos para casa no penultimo metrô, quase duas da manhã.


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